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East
Lothian - the String of Pearls
In the whole of Scotland there is probably no richer area for golf than East Lothian where, in a compact region next door to Edinburgh, there are 20 courses ranging from the oldest 9 hole course in the world to several brand new championship courses.
Visitors have the option of staying in one of the charming and historic small towns and villages in East Lothian itself - such as Gullane, Dirleton (dominated by the 12th century castle) or North Berwick - or basing themselves in Edinburgh, one of the world's great capital cities and only 30 minutes by train and 40 minutes by car to North Berwick.
I admit I am biased, I live in East Lothian, but I have no hesitation in advising anyone coming to Scotland to golf to start here - you won't be disappointed.
Anyway, to the courses:
Situated in the golfing paradise which is the village of Gullane, Muirfield is the home of The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers, the venue for 15 British Open Championships and one of the worlds finest championship links. Actually playing the course, which has for years been voted the best course in Britain and Ireland, hasn't always been easy but things have improved greatly over recent years. Visitors are now welcome on Tuesdays and Thursdays provided they have a handicap of 18 or better, although application should ideally be made at least a year in advance. Applications have to be made in writing giving full information on all group members. They will normally accept applications from May for play the following year and we can complete an application on your behalf. It is then best faxed by yourself - based on an observation that if they receive competing applications from members of the public or tour operators they will give preference to members of the public. They will require a handicap certificate - the maximum handicap limit is 18 for men and 24 for ladies.
The Gullane Courses
Golf has been played at Gullane for over 300 years, and James Finnegan author of 'Blasted Heaths and Blessed Greens' has no doubts about the pedigree of the courses :
'Were someone to ask me to nominate the ideal course on which to be introduced to seaside golf, it might well be Gullane No 1. And I would then urge the questionner to find time for a game on No 2 and No 3'.
Gullane No1 (
)
One of the great unspoiled
championship links, which many feel to be every bit as challenging as Muirfield
and perhaps worthy of hosting an Open Championship itself. James Finnegan described
the elevated 7th hole as 'one of the half dozen most enthralling spots
in the world of golf'. The course is used as a final Open Championship
qualifier when the Open comes to Muirfield.
Gullane No2 (
)
A very fine and challenging links which in common with the other Gullane courses, shares the same outlook and turf as Muirfield. Considered by many locals to be the equal of the more celebrated, and expensive, No1 course and definitely one which the Golf World rankings got wrong. It is the favourite course of many locals and is long and tough enough to have attracted many prestigious tournaments, including the 2002 Seniors Open Amateur Championship. Another Open Championship qualifier when Muirfield comes around.
Gullane No3 (
)
A shorter course but by no means an easy option, it features many challenging par three holes and has by common consent the best greens of all the Gullane courses. Ingenious bunker placement and fierce rough mean imaginative shot making and accuracy are at a premium. Gullane No.3 is a hidden gem, it maybe shorter but it matches 18 tough but fair links holes with some of the best views over Gullane Hill. The holes vary from the stunning seventh, with an elevated tee giving views across the bay, to the quirky Par 3, 15th - sharp downhill giving the player a choice between a high holding 8 iron at the stick or a bump and run all the way down the slope. A underplayed, undervalued course which delivers sheer pleasure for beginner and low-handicapper alike. In my opinion this offers the best value golf in East Lothian. A good option for the day you decide to try 36 holes.
Craigielaw Golf
Club (
)
This is East Lothians newest course, but one that has already established a first class reputation - with a variety of tees to choose from, Red 5371 yards, Blue 6043 yards and White 6601 yards. Built on land of ancient, blown sand with fine views over Aberlady Bay and beyond to Gullane hill, the greens at Craigielaw have been constructed and styled to conform to USGA recommendations, although prepared along more traditional lines to be hard fast and true.
Longniddry Golf
Club (
)
A mixture of parkland and links, this testing layout has also served as a final qualifier for the Open Championship in recent years. Described by Golf Monthly as ' an enchanting contrast, a seaside course of rare values, mainly parkland with a touch of links. It won't overtax your stamina but it's as pretty as a bride and invariably in top notch order'.
Dunbar
Golf Club (
)
It's long been reported that Dunbar was founded in 1856 but recently discovered records now put the date as more likely being 1794. It was the campsite of Oliver Cromwell's army at the battle of Dunbar in 1650 and Old Tom Morris came along two centuries later to lay out the course - largely speaking - as it is today. This classic East Lothian links has a reputation for tight fairways and quality greens, it has been used as an Open qualifier in the past and will do so again whenever the Open returns to Muirfield. 'It is not easy to call up any stretch of holes with lovelier views than those of Dunbar' - James Finnegan : 'Blasted Heaths and Blessed Greens'.
North Berwick West
Links (
)
With a deserved world wide
reputation, this is golf at it's most natural and enjoyable - real links golf
with roads, walls, burns, humps, hollows and knee length rough. Golf more or
less as we know it has been played on this stretch of linksland for at least
the last 175 years and Burt Lancaster loved it so much that he became a member
during the 1970's. James Finnegan was moved to remark 'For sheer golfing
pleasure - a pleasure bred of variety, unpredictability, challenge and proximity
to the sea - few courses surpass North Berwicks West Links. Admittedly, it is
old-fashioned and on occassions even odd. But it is irresistibly old-fashioned
and irresistibly odd'. A joy to play and another Open Championship
qualifier.
North
Berwick East Links (
)
Better known as The Glen, this wonderful links has been described by Golf World as 'one of the hidden gems of Scottish Golf and one of the best value golfing experiences in East Lothian'. With panoramic views of the Firth of Forth estuary and the ancient volcanic plug of the Bass Rock, this course was expanded from 9 to 18 holes in 1906 by the legendary James Braid and revised by MacKenzie Ross - architect of the Ailsa course,Turnberry - following World War Two. 'Few Americans of my acquaintance have ever played the East Links, but those who have think of it warmly and with a smile'- James Finnegan.
Whitekirk (
)
A relatively new 18 hole championship course built on hilly moorland between North Berwick and Dunbar, this is stern test of golf with wonderful views over the Firth of Forth to the shores of Fife. Whitekirk retains a links-like feel and 'deserves a place in the galaxy that includes Muirfield, Gullane No.1, North Berwick and Dunbar..' - 'Blasted Heaths and Blessed Greens'.
Royal Musselburgh(
)
The Royal Musselburgh Golf Club was founded in 1774, making it one of the oldest clubs in the world, and originally played over the famous 9 hole links course at Levenhall, Musselburgh (see below).The club moved to the present secluded tree lined parkland course in 1926. The course was designed by James Braid and offers superb views of the Firth of Forth and the Edinburgh skyline. Royal Musselburgh members still play for a silver trophy known as the 'Old Club Cup', dating from 1774 and the oldest cup in the world still played for competitively.
Musselburgh - Monktonhall(
)
The Musselburgh Golf Course is a demanding parkland course, which nestles in a loop formed by the River Esk, overlooked by the historic village of Inveresk. In contrast to many East Lothian courses, it is densely populated by trees and at 6700+ yards is a real test of long, accurate hitting. The 18th is a tough uphill finishing hole offering a splendid view of the magnificent art deco clubhouse.
Kilspindie Golf
Club (
)
Some handbooks have Willie Park as the architect, but club officials reckon that Old Tom Morris laid out the course in 1867. An old fashioned links course with superb bunkering and fast greens, this is golf as dictated by nature, with superb views over the river Forth and on to the Edinburgh skyline.
Musselburgh
Links Golf Club ( Personal Recommendation)
A delightful 9 hole course steeped in the history of Scottish golf. The account book of the Laird of Inveresk, from 1672, gives the first recorded evidence of golf on the links, but tradition has it that Mary Queen of Scots played here in 1567. The course hosted the British Open Championship 5 times before it became a requirement to play modern golf over an 18 hole course. An essential visit for those with an interest in the tradition of the game and one which lends itself to a 27 or 36 hole day.
Cardrona (
)
Although not actually in East Lothian, the wonderful Cardrona Course is within easy reach and can be readily included in an East Lothian tour. Designed by the renowned Dave Thomas (The Belfry), this par 72 course presents a challenge and makes the most of some of the Scottish Border's most attractive scenery.Dave Thomas and his team have produced a course that has quickly become one of Scotland's best. Making the most of wood, park and river, Cardrona has something for every golfer and has a mature feel to it that's all the more remarkable given its recent completion. Full warm up and practice facilities are also available. The course is matched by the impressive clubhouse facilities within the hotel. Locker facilities and club storage are the standard for every guest, as well as access to their Fitness Centre and18 Metre indoor pool.
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